I’ve toured the mediterranean Balkans twice in the past two year. During my first visit, I went to Slovenia and Croatia. On my second trip, I went further south starting at Albania and making my way north towards Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Southern Croatia. 

I can immediately tell you my favourite of these countries – Slovenia. Perhaps because it’s the most ‘European‘ and therefore familiar, but there’s no doubt that it also felt the most magical. I only got to explore a few Slovenian towns but none of them disappointed – I will return.

I found Montenegro and Croatia to be particularly expensive, especially for budget travellers. In my opinion, these countries offer poor value for money. If you’re in Europe for only a short time, I’d highly recommend visiting other parts of the Med which are cheaper and have more to offer.

Intercity buses

If you are travelling around the Balkans without a car, intercity buses will become your best friends. There are no trains in most places or, worse, they are so slow that it’s a waste of your time.

Unlike much of Europe, the buses and coaches will likely be older and a bit less comfortable than you’re used to. Also, if you purchase through sites like Flixbus, the tickets won’t be that much cheaper than the rest of Europe, but you do get peace of mind that you have a spot on the bus. If you do plan to purchase bus tickets ahead of travelling, here are some tips:

• Carry cash, you’ll need it. Definitely some euros and the local currency
• Expect to pay a bus station tax on top of your ticket (around €1-3)
• Always print your whole ticket off. Don’t trim off the excess
• The stations can be very hot and chaotic, arrive early and chill out
• For long distance or popular journeys, book ahead. Tickets sell out
• If travelling in/out of the EU, have your passport ready for border control

Alternatively, hire a car. Be warned though, some of the roads are a bit scary… but the views are incredible.

Albania

Tirana

Although Tirana isn’t a particularly touristic city, it is the capital of Albania and has enough on offer that makes it worth visiting. It stands out for its modern history and long journey to become a democracy.

Although Albania is often grouped with the former Yugoslavia, its history is quite separate (and arguably more interesting). It went from being ruled by the self-appointed King Zog to occupation by fascist Italy. Then from 1944 it was under control of the communist dictator Enver Hoxha. It wasn’t until 1992 that Albanian communism fell.

The most unique attractions in Tirana are two underground bunkers built by Hoxha. There are two BunkArt locations (with the one outside of the city the most interesting). I enjoyed listening to the Real Dictators podcast about Hoxha, which covers his paranoia and why he build expensive underground cities while typical Albanians suffered.

Durrës

XYZ

While exploring, I’d strongly recommend Lea Ypi’s Coming of Age at the End of History book about growing up in Albania. I listened to the audiobook whiles walking around – it really brought the city to life.

Bosia and Herzegovina

Mostar

I loved Mostar. The old town, the part of Mostar you see on TikTok, is tiny. But it’s definitely worth it.

Mostar is historically (and still to this day) divided into two sides. On one side of the river lives the Croats, while the other is home to the city’s Muslims.

As someone from the UK, I find Ottomon arhcitture to be very charming, partly as it feels quite novel to me.

Croatia

Zagreb

Zadar

Split

Split is Croatia’s second city and, perhaps controversially, quite boring. Its most redeeming factor is the connection to ancient history.

Half of the old town is built on the ruins of Diocletian’s Palace. Diocletian was a Roman emperor who reformed the empire in response to the Imperial Crisis. Many of the city’s walls, gates and buildings date back to the 200s. It’s pretty impressive to walk along the streets (then hallways) that were built for a retired emperor.

For me, that’s where the fun ends. Once you’ve seen one Croatian old town, you’ve seen them all. I’d recommend History’s Greatest Cities podcast for background on Split and the Roman empire, or alternatively take a walking tour.

€2 each way – pay to driver. 

The bus stop is hidden 

Kotor and Perast

• Taxis are cheaper and quicker if travelling as a group 
• Buy a ticket from the salesperson at the stop or directly from the driver
• Inspectors board the buses and check all tickets
• Buses range between 16 and 40 seaters
• Other pre-bookable bus companies do operate in the area

Montenegro

Budva and Sveti Stefan

Budva felt like a slightly upmarket Benidorm but for Russian tourist instead of English and Germans. There’s a lot going on, with loads of average restaurants, beaches and water sports activities. Budva’s best attraction is the well preserved Old Town. However, it feels like a miniature version of the more authentic feeling Dubrovnik. 

Overall, I didn’t like Budva. If I want to sunbathe or go for a swim, I want to feel relaxed. Budva’s main beach and strip is not relaxing. 

Instead, I went to Sveti Stefan. This tampue town, which you’ll recognise even if you don’t know its name, is very quaint and relaxing. The restaurants are more upmarket (and slightly more expensive than Budva, but only marginally). The beaches are also pebbles (which I prefer to sand). Do bring water shoes. 

I also ventured further south down the coast to Petrovac. It felt like a mini Budva with loads of souvenir shops. It was very busy and lively. 

If I had to choose from the three, there is no doubt Sveti Stefan is the best option for a quaint and relaxing beach day. 

Public transport to Sveti Stefan and Petrovac

Budva public transport is operated by a company called Mediteran Express. The bus stops are not part of the main bus stations but on the streets. Each bus stop has a printed timetable. When I was in Budva, I wanted to visit the nearby towns of Sveti Stefan and Petrovac along the coast.

To visit these towns, I took these routes:

1. Budva to Sveti Stefan: €2.50 (30 mins)
2. Sveti Stefan to Petrovac: €2.50 (15 mins)
3. Petrovac to Budva: €3.50 (45 mins)
4. Total price: €8.50 

Most Budva bus stops have a sales person waiting with a logo shirt on. On the day I used the buses, they were all young boys. You pay for the ticket directly to the sales person and then board the bus once it arrives. For stops with no sales person, you can buy a ticket directly from the driver.