I’ve toured the mediterranean Balkans twice in the past two year. During my first visit, I went to Slovenia and Croatia. On my second trip, I went further south starting at Albania and making my way north towards Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Southern Croatia. 

I can immediately tell you my favourite of these countries – Slovenia. Perhaps because it’s the most ‘European‘ and therefore familiar, but there’s no doubt that it also felt the most magical. I only got to explore a few Slovenian towns but none of them disappointed – I will return.

I found Montenegro and Croatia to be particularly expensive, especially for budget travellers. In my opinion, these countries offer poor value for money. If you’re in Europe for only a short time, I’d highly recommend visiting other parts of the Med which are cheaper and have more to offer.

Intercity buses

If you are travelling around the Balkans without a car, intercity buses will become your best friends. There are no trains in most places or, worse, they are so slow that it’s a waste of your time.

Unlike much of Europe, the buses and coaches will likely be older and a bit less comfortable than you’re used to. Also, if you purchase through sites like Flixbus, the tickets won’t be that much cheaper than the rest of Europe, but you do get peace of mind that you have a spot on the bus. If you do plan to purchase bus tickets ahead of travelling, here are some tips:

• Carry cash, you’ll need it. Definitely some euros and the local currency
• Expect to pay a bus station tax on top of your ticket (around €1-3)
• Always print your whole ticket off. Don’t trim off the excess
• The stations can be very hot and chaotic, arrive early and chill out
• For long distance or popular journeys, book ahead. Tickets sell out
• If travelling in/out of the EU, have your passport ready for border control

Alternatively, hire a car. Be warned though, some of the roads are a bit scary… but the views are incredible.

Albania

Tirana

Although Tirana isn’t a particularly touristic city, it is the capital of Albania and has enough on offer that makes it worth visiting. It stands out for its modern history and long journey to become a democracy.

Although Albania is often grouped with the former Yugoslavia, its history is quite separate (and arguably more interesting). It went from being ruled by the self-appointed King Zog to occupation by fascist Italy. Then from 1944 it was under control of the communist dictator Enver Hoxha. It wasn’t until 1992 that Albanian communism fell.

The most unique attractions in Tirana are two underground bunkers built by Hoxha. There are two BunkArt locations (with the one outside of the city the most interesting). I enjoyed listening to the Real Dictators podcast about Hoxha, which covers his paranoia and why he build expensive underground cities while typical Albanians suffered.

Durrës

XYZ

While exploring, I’d strongly recommend Lea Ypi’s Coming of Age at the End of History book about growing up in Albania. I listened to the audiobook whiles walking around – it really brought the city to life.

Bosia and Herzegovina

Mostar

I loved Mostar. The old town, the part of Mostar you see on TikTok, is tiny. But it’s definitely worth it.

Mostar is historically (and still to this day) divided into two sides. On one side of the river lives the Croats, while the other is home to the city’s Muslims.

As someone from the UK, I find Ottomon arhcitture to be very charming, partly as it feels quite novel to me.

Croatia

Zagreb

Zadar

Split

Split is Croatia’s second city and, perhaps controversially, quite boring. Its most redeeming factor is the connection to ancient history.

Half of the old town is built on the ruins of Diocletian’s Palace. Diocletian was a Roman emperor who reformed the empire in response to the Imperial Crisis. Many of the city’s walls, gates and buildings date back to the 200s. It’s pretty impressive to walk along the streets (then hallways) that were built for a retired emperor.

For me, that’s where the fun ends. Once you’ve seen one Croatian old town, you’ve seen them all. I’d recommend History’s Greatest Cities podcast for background on Split and the Roman empire, or alternatively take a walking tour.

€2 each way – pay to driver. 

The bus stop is hidden 

Kotor and Perast

• Taxis are cheaper and quicker if travelling as a group 
• Buy a ticket from the salesperson at the stop or directly from the driver
• Inspectors board the buses and check all tickets
• Buses range between 16 and 40 seaters
• Other pre-bookable bus companies do operate in the area

Montenegro

Budva and Sveti Stefan

Budva felt like a slightly upmarket Benidorm but for Russian tourist instead of English and Germans. There’s a lot going on, with loads of average restaurants, beaches and water sports activities. Budva’s best attraction is the well preserved Old Town. However, it feels like a miniature version of the more authentic feeling Dubrovnik. 

Overall, I didn’t like Budva. If I want to sunbathe or go for a swim, I want to feel relaxed. Budva’s main beach and strip is not relaxing. 

Instead, I went to Sveti Stefan. This tampue town, which you’ll recognise even if you don’t know its name, is very quaint and relaxing. The restaurants are more upmarket (and slightly more expensive than Budva, but only marginally). The beaches are also pebbles (which I prefer to sand). Do bring water shoes. 

I also ventured further south down the coast to Petrovac. It felt like a mini Budva with loads of souvenir shops. It was very busy and lively. 

If I had to choose from the three, there is no doubt Sveti Stefan is the best option for a quaint and relaxing beach day. 

Public transport to Sveti Stefan and Petrovac

Budva public transport is operated by a company called Mediteran Express. The bus stops are not part of the main bus stations but on the streets. Each bus stop has a printed timetable. When I was in Budva, I wanted to visit the nearby towns of Sveti Stefan and Petrovac along the coast.

To visit these towns, I took these routes:

1. Budva to Sveti Stefan: €2.50 (30 mins)
2. Sveti Stefan to Petrovac: €2.50 (15 mins)
3. Petrovac to Budva: €3.50 (45 mins)
4. Total price: €8.50 

Most Budva bus stops have a sales person waiting with a logo shirt on. On the day I used the buses, they were all young boys. You pay for the ticket directly to the sales person and then board the bus once it arrives. For stops with no sales person, you can buy a ticket directly from the driver. 

I admit I’d never really thought much about Lithuania, its culture or its history. However, in my recent visit my expectations were well exceeded.

Lithuania is probably the closest the EU has to a ‘hidden gem’ – it only had 1.4 million inbound tourists in 2024. 30% of these arrived from its neighbours: Poland, Latvia and Belarus. Yet, it has so much to offer tourists. From its ancient language, relatively recent pagan religions or basketball team, there’s so much to see, do and learn. And it’s affordable.

Route: Kaunas to Vilnius

I flew into Kaunas airport, stayed in the city for a few days then travelled to Vilnius by train. I did a day trip to Trakai, then flew out of Vilnius airport. You could easily do this route in reverse. The trains are quick, affordable and can be booked online.

Kaunas

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Bus €1 or 70 cent with app. Board front pay driver . Get off middle or back. 

Google up to date except for airport – use schedule. Same price. 

Vilnius 

Trakai

Trakai is a small town and the former capital of Lithuania. Today, it is best known for its impressive orange castle and lake. It’s one of those views you have definitely seen somewhere as a screensaver.

It is also known for its small Karaite population — descendants of Turkic-speaking Crimean Karaites who were relocated to the town by Grand Duke Vytautas the Great in the late 1300s. You can see their traditional wooden houses and try kibinai, a savoury pastry filled with meat.

It’s pretty close to Vilnius. You can take a bus or train from there, which takes about 30 minutes. Both options are pretty affordable. I chose the train, which was €4.90 for a same-day return ticket, booked last minute. The train station is about a 30 minute walk to the castle, which is lovely along the lake on a spring or summer day. The bus can drop you closer to the centre.

Overall, it’s a sleepy town with not much to do aside from visiting the castle, taking a walk and eating kibinai. Yet, it’s well worth a half-day visit.

Vilnius

abc

Use the app, or contactless on the bus. Contactless is slightly more expensive but there’s no minimum spend – so if you prefer walking most of the time, it’s probably better. 

Need to knows

• Lithuania is flat – there are very few hills, but many cobbles.
• Pavements are often uneven and cobbled – decent footwear required.
• It gets very cold and very hot, ranging from -25°C to 35°C.
• Almost everywhere takes card (euros).
• Public transport is cheap and reliable.
• Museums are closed on Mondays.
• Churches are free to visit.
• English is widely spoken.
• It feels safe.

What to listen to

I love to listen to songs in the language of the place I’m visiting, especially when walking around old towns. My favourite song from this trip was by Vytautas Kernagis, a folk ballad exploring nature as a metaphor for emotion.

Lithuania was once a major player in European politics or, at the least, the Grand Duchy of Lithuania controlled huge regions of the continent. This podcast gives a brief overview to how Lithuania was founded, united with Poland, then gained independence from the Soviet Union.

If you want an insight into the modern day politics of Europe’s happiest country, try this BBC World Service debate that covers topics from Ukraine to LGBT rights.

Lithuania from above

I took my drone on a Lithuania, Sweden and Norway trip. Enjoy some aerial footage – Lithuania is the first 39 seconds:

One of Lithuania already been to the other Baltic countries of Estonia and Latvia although I had a really nice time in both of those countries Lithuania really blew me away. I managed to visit corners Trica and Vilnius the two biggest cities and main tourist town in the country all three of these locations did not disappoint. They’re all absolutely amazing to visit The cities themselves for bus full of life loads of full shops and restaurants everywhere very clean very safe well organised there are lots of attractions to go to things to see in both cities. I usually think that’s about every place I visit but I could really see myself living in a country like Lithuania.

Kaunas 

Bus €1 or 70 cent with app. Board front pay driver . Get off middle or back. 

Google up to date except for airport – use schedule. Same price. 

Vilnius 

Use the app, or contactless on the bus. Contactless is slightly more expensive but there’s no minimum spend – so if you prefer walking most of the time, it’s probably better. 

Cottage cheese zuowrmandef shells 

Calais bread 

llld. Baras 

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Mushroom bakery 

Cottage cheese in supermarket 

Fried bread 

National dish + fig soup 

Tree cake u